Це все про острів, сардів і любов

Ми прибуваємо на Сардинію величезним паромом о шостій годині ранку. Сонце ліниво випливає з-за силуетів високих гір, що разом із пальмами оточили нас півколом, як і сам загадковий острів. З маленької портової кав’ярні тягнеться аромат свіжомеленої кави і гарячих круасанів. Кажуть, що перший день у будь-якому новому місці запам’ятовується найбільше. Дійсно, я можу з легкістю відтворити деталі знайомства з багатьма містами. Але найбільше мені запам’ятовуються запахи. Тож Сардинія відтепер пахнутиме мені ранком, кавою та морем.

Зараз ми в найбільшому північному порту Сардинії – в Олбії. Кінцева точка нашого маршруту – місто Сан-Теодоро, невеличкий курорт з одним із найкрасивіших сардинських пляжів під назвою Ла Чінта (La Cinta). Узагалі, в Олбії є аеропорт, і сюди можна було б набагато швидше дістатись літаком. Але хто не шукає легких шляхів і любить випробовувати долю, той – ми. А ми ще декілька місяців тому купили дешеві квитки на паром з Чівітавеккії до Олбії. І хоча моя уява малювала собі дерев’яні лавки прямо на палубі, скажений середземноморський вітер і краплі моря, що долітають до наших облич, ми цілу ніч спали на м’яких стільцях у просторому барі морського гіганта Tirrenia. Виявилося, що паром – це суперкомфортабельна річ за мінімальні гроші, де є ресторан, бар, кінотеатр і навіть кімната з гральними автоматами. Чівітавеккіа – ще одне італійське портове місто, куди ми доїхали електричкою з залізничного вокзалу Риму.

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Наш автобус, що прямує до Сан-Теодоро, приїжджає в порт майже вчасно.

– Бонджорно, 2 квиточки до Сан-Теодоро, перфаворе!

Заспаний водій задумливо чухає потилицю, і ми розуміємо, що без знання італійської на острові буде складно. Дійсно, більшість сардів не володіють інтернаціональною мовою, зате, як і скрізь в Італії, щиро бажають допомогти. Яка різниця, як це робити – швидкими емоційними жестами чи голосними італійськими словами по складах, головне – що з теплими посмішками і неприхованою доброзичливістю. Італійці інакше просто не вміють. Ми запаковуємось у автобус до двадцяти афроамериканців (ми точно на Сардинії?) і їдемо знайомитись з островом.

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Що ми знали про Сардинію до цього моменту? Я була впевнена, що буду наповнювати свій шлунок дорогими моєму серцю морепродуктами, а Саша всю дорогу розказував про місцевий Стоунхендж. Історія Сардинії така ж давня, як і історія європейської цивілізації. Тут є велетенські кам’яні споруди, так звані “гробниці гігантів” і зіккурати, а серед популярних сувенірів – людиноподібні фігурки давніх сардів, що більше схожі на інопланетян, ніж на перших людей. Предки сучасних сардів жили у горах і займались скотарством. До цього часу їхні нащадки надають перевагу вівчарству і виготовленню сирів. Тому Сардинія – це, в першу чергу, м’ясо і сир, і тільки потім – морепродукти. На магнітах і листівках тут частіше зображують овець і гори, ніж кораблі та море. Сардинія – нетиповий середземноморський острів, тим він і прекрасний.

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Ми приїхали на Сардинію за спокійним горизонтальним відпочинком на узбережжі Середземномор’я. Після восьми днів нашої подорожі Італією хочеться розслабити і ноги, і думки. У Сан-Теодоро ми ще трохи блукаємо залитими сонцем вуличками в пошуках нашого готелю. Скоріше б упасти лицем в ту ультрамаринову синяву, яку я так жадібно роздивлялась на фотографіях протягом останніх декількох місяців.

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Ми забронювали номер у звичайному тризірковому готелі ще у квітні. Така передбачуваність дозволила нам значно зекономити: booking.com пропонує хороші знижки, якщо бронювати номер заздалегідь (у нашому випадку – за шість місяців до поїздки). Нічого особливого, ясна річ, ми не очікували. Сардинія ж почала перевершувати усі сподівання уже в перший день, коли тризірковий готель виявився затишним автентичним будинком, де всі меблі і речі підібрано з перфектним смаком. Тут усе говорить: “Ми пишаємось тим, що маємо і робимо самі”. Гардини і постіль прикрашає блакитна вишивка хрестиком, на столику і тумбочках – квітчані візерунки, виведені пензликом на білих дерев’яних поверхнях. Почуваємося майже як удома.

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Ледь чутний шум моря безсоромно вривається крізь прочинене вікно і нагадує про те, за чим ми сюди приїхали. П’ять хвилин – і перед нами Ла Чінта, зі своїм білосніжним нагрітим піском і хвилюючим морем. Усе точно так, як на картинках, тільки ще краще. Бо це – життя, а не фотошоп. І це життя має колір прозорої лазурі, що, віддаляючись від берега, переливається сотнями відтінків синяви і, врешті, зливається з небом.

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Цей момент нагадує мені кадри з типового голівудського фільму, якусь “Блакитну лагуну”, тому що так красиво може бути тільки в кіно. А далі – зовсім не кінематографічні кадри: я ретельно намазую тіло сонцезахисним кремом, розглядаю людей навколо (хммм, а тут люблять топлес) і тільки тоді іду тривожити уже і без мене розбурхане море.

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До речі, саме у вересні в Сан-Теодоро проходять змагання з кайтбордингу та віндсьорфінгу, що швидше нагадують морську фантасмагорію, ніж конкурс. Розкута європейська молодь влаштувала собі свято свободи, хвиль та алкоголю, і виглядає це дійсно круто.

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Ла Чінта відділяє море від невеликої гірської лагуни – місця вечірніх променадів рожевих фламінго. Сарди – неймовірні любителі всіляких містичних і загадкових історій, це ми зрозуміли одразу. Розповідають усім, що фламінго прилітають на узбережжя лагуни щовечора. І щоб підтвердити свої слова, демонструють зображення фламінго на путівниках і футболках для туристів. Ясна річ, ми повірили кожному їхньому слову і щодня під час заходу сонця виглядали екзотичних пташок на безлюдному березі лагуни. Але фламінго до нас так і не прилетіли. Що ж, в інопланетян сарди теж вірять, тож нічого дарма засмучуватись.

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Раніше я завжди віддавала перевагу серпневим відпусткам. А це, як ви знаєте, розпал туристичного сезону, коли встигаєш згоріти на сонці, ще не дійшовши до пляжу. Мені здавалось, що у вересні вже і море не таке тепле, і сонце не таке палюче, і засмага не така шоколадна. Але це точно не про Сардинію. Кінець вересня – ідельний час для відпочинку на її узбережжі. Температура коливається у межах +25-27, до ледь прохолодного моря швидко звикаєш, і сонце вже настільки милосердне, що можна цілими днями валятись на сліпучобілому піску живописних пляжів. Уже через декілька днів Сардинія лишає нам на згадку рівномірну темну засмагу і нові світлі пасма вигорілого волосся.

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Жоден острів і жодна країна неможливі без людей – найбільш особливої прикраси будь-якого місця. Любов сардів до свого дому безмежна. А ще – вони фанати усього блакитного, морського, пастельного і світлого. Їхні будинки – це кам’яні персики і абрикоси, всередині яких – красивий хендмейдний інтер’єр.

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Сарди народжуються із синдромами післяобідньої ліні і повільності життя. Їхня засмага ніколи не змивається, а шкіра цілий рік пахне морем. Як і решта італійців, вони надміру емоційні і завжди (підкреслюю, завжди) відкриті до невимушеної розмови. Інколи у нас складалось враження, що спочатку сардинські немовлята кажуть “prego” (прошу), а вже потім ‘mama’. У нашому готелі працюють місцеві хлопці і дівчата. І хоча вони цілодобово виконують забаганки туристів, їхнє прего завжди звучить щиро. Саме сарди роблять свій острів таким теплим і привітним. Тут добре і затишно. І все це завдяки тутешнім людям.

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Ось такою перед нами постала Сардинія, загадковий острів з давньою історією і казковими краєвидами. Ви ж розумієте, що втиснути всі враження про це фантастичне місце в один текст – завдання з розряду неможливого. Тому я вже готую другу і завершальну частину розповіді про наші сардинські канікули. Там я розповідатиму про місцеву їжу, ринки, магазини і столицю Сардинії. А потім ще трошки мовчатиму про сардини, яких ми так і не спробували.

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Ще більше фото з Сардинії шукайте в моєму Інстаграмі 🙂

Ніна Богуш

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