Не морем єдиним: що купувати і куштувати на Сардинії

– Так ось як він росте! – не можу приховати своєї по-дитячому наївної радості. Гранатове дерево я бачу вперше, тож автоматично витягаю телефон для мільйонного фото. Ми вже другу годину поспіль блукаємо охайними вуличками сардинського курортного містечка Сан-Теодоро. І за кожним новим поворотом нас зустрічають не античні фасади, оголені маскулінні скульптури чи католицькі храми. Загалом, майже нічого з того, що зазвичай бачиш у типових італійських містах. Сан-Теодоро – це невеликий простір, частково відвойований людьми у острова і його природи. І хоча всюдисущі заквітчані паркани, екзотичні кущі і пальми в центрі міста створюють відчуття первозданності, Сардинія вже давно стала місцем для комфортного життя і відпочинку людей.

Несподівано ми натрапляємо на місцевий ринок. Джекпот! Ринок найкраще познайомить вас з будь-яким містом чи культурою, а особливо, якщо місцеві жителі організували його для себе, а не для туристів. А ми опинилися в епіцентрі саме такого базару. Молоді і старі продавці весело сперечаються італійською, нав’язливо просять спробувати свою смакоту, накидають на плечі нерішучих жінок величезні шарфи, а мужчинам наливають по п’ятдесят грам сардинської трав’яної настоянки мірто. Покупці ходять від прилавку до прилавку, з радістю беруть на пробу сири і ковбаси, крутяться перед зеркалами в кашемірових обновах, ну і п’ють, коли наливають. Welcome, друзі, на сардинський базар.

Тут можна придбати їжу, одяг і всяке автентичне начиння для дому. Сарди, в основному, продають різні види місцевих сирів, більшість з яких виготовлені з овечого молока. І це не дивно. Я вже розповідала про те, що з давніх часів жителі Сардинії займаються розведенням овець. Як одержима запліснявілими сирами людина, я не змогла пройти повз палаток з тим добром. Найбільш популярним на Сардинії є “пекоріно” (від італійського “pecorino” – вівця). Тож якщо ви не байдужі до сирів з овечого молока, то це, вірогідно, буде найсмачніший сир у вашому житті.

Я ходила від одного прилавку до іншого, наїлась сиру до знемоги, і врешті, купила свій заповітний трьохсотграмовий кусень. На фото видно і такі підв’язані доверху кульки копченого сиру. Це – “проволетта аффуміката” (“provoletta affumicata”) – перший і останній сир з коров’ячого молока на острові. Проволетта має вершковий смак і дуже нагадує моцарелу, хіба що копчену й більш солону. Разом із сирами сарди зазвичай продають ковбаси з вепрового й ослячого м’яса. Ми спробували ковбасу з дикого кабана, бо хто взагалі куштував ковбасу, виготовлену з дикого кабана? Злегка екзотичний і вміру насичений смак, рекомендую споживати з хлібом і розумом, бо можна не помітити, як майже півкілограмове кілечко опиниться у вашому шлунку.

До речі, саме на Сардинії виготовляють єдиний у світі заборонений сир “касу марцу” (“casu marzu” або “гнилий сир”). Це той самий “пекоріно”, тільки довше витриманий і доведений до появи личинок. Ті, хто зважується спробувати “касу марцу”, змушені прикривати чи навіть закривати очі під час споживання, оскільки маленькі білі черв’ячки стрибають на відстань 15 см. Ясна річ, на ринку цей славнозвісний делікатес ми не знайшли. Мабуть, треба було втертись у довіру до якогось місцевого господаря і здійснити нелегальний обмін євро на гнилий сир у підвалі його непримітного будиночку. Але це вже була б зовсім інша історія.

Кожен другий прилавок на сардинському базарі належить іммігрантам, частіше – афроамериканцям, рідше – вихідцям з Індії та Пакистану. Вони продають одяг, прикраси, сувеніри та купу іншого до неможливості яскравого причандалля. І це не якийсь там відвертий непотріб. Їхні товари виготовлені з натуральних тканин і матеріалів: якщо шарф – то кашеміровий, якшо сорочка – то лляна, якшо теплі речі та домашні килимки – то з овечої шерсті. На фото нижче видно, що кашеміровий шарф коштує 20 євро, але це дещо завищена ціна. Тут можна і треба торгуватись, тож якщо проявите трішки переконливості і акторської майcтерності рівня ‘beginner’, то зекономите як мінімум третину першопочаткової вартості будь-якої речі.

Я просто не змогла пройти повз чудернацькі пляжні покривала, розміром з наш готельний номер, з всілякими індійськими та африканськими візерунками. Цілком вірогідно, що це плід чиєїсь фантазії, а не давні народні мотиви, but who cares?

Тож ми придбали покривалко, сир, ковбасу, декілька груш, у найближчому магазині захопимо ще пляшечку вина і ввечері влаштуємо собі ідеальний пікнік на березі моря (витрачено 18 євро). Помаранчеве сонце повільно сідатиме за сонливі гори, розмальовуючи небо у найтепліші відтінки, а я жуватиму ковбасу і думатиму про невимовну радість буття.

Після шопінгу заходимо у найближчий ресторан, щоб перехилити по бокальчику рожевого і обговорити побачене. Зазвичай, вибір місця навіть для мінімального перекусу ми вибираємо через TripAdvisor, але не цього разу. Mi scusi, друзі, але я наганяла кілометрів з 10 по тому ринку, тож дозволила собі цю халатність. Просто нізвідки з’являється низенький привітний дядечко-офіціант з сивими бакенбардами і розкладає перед нами меню. Ще через декілька хвилин у нас на столі опиняються хрумкі шматки традиційного хліба “пане каразау”, без якого не обходиться жоден прийом їжі на Сардинії. Байдуже, замовляєте ви пасту, морозиво чи тільки вино – плетена тарілочка зі свіжим каразау стоятиме на столі завжди. Зазвичай його випікають тонкими круглими пластинами, а вже перед подачею ламають на менші частини.

Ми замовляємо 2 порції “trofie with fish”. За словами офіціанта, то беліссіма паста з морською рибою, а якою саме рибою – вияснити не вдалось, бо наш офіціянте прогулював англійську в школі. До цього часу ми куштували пасту вже з десяток разів і були впевнені, що італійська кухня навряд чи ще чимось здивує. Аж тут – тадааам!

І хоча зовнішній вигляд страви не має нічого спільного з естетикою, ці ’trofie’ виявились настільки смачними, що я, мабуть, вперше в Італії повністю з’їла одну з їхніх гігантських порцій. Секретна риба виявилась фантастично приготованим тунцем. Навіть не уявляю, як можна так ідеально поєнати інгредієнти і так тонко підкреслити смак страви звичайним томатним соусом. І-де-аль-но.

У попередньому тексті про Сардинію я вже згадувала про те, як місцеві жителі плекають свою автентичність. Так, Сардинія – це теж Італія, але з власною історією та індивідуальністю. Останню сарди умудряються проявити навіть у приготуванні стандартної італійської пасти. Звичайно, тут можна замовити традиційні спагетті та фетуччіні, але кого цим здивуєш? Набагато цікавіше спробувати різнокольорові мушлі, чорні видовжені крученики та інші дивакуваті макаронні вироби. На Сардинії ви їх знайдете у будь-якому супермаркеті, ресторані чи кафетейрі.

Напевно, вам уже набридло слухати про їжу 😃 Правильно, бо їжу треба їсти, а не читати ці мемуари і пускати слину. Що ж іще такого туристи везуть із Сардинії? У центрі Сан-Теодоро є безліч сувенірних крамниць, де продаються листівки, магніти, тарілочки, чашечки, брелочки, загалом, стандартний набір, який вам регулярно привозять друзі й родичі зі своїх поїздок. Але і тут сарди змогли виділитись, прикрасивши усі ці речі самобутніми блакитними візерунками і перетворивши їх на неймовірну милість.

Практично в кожному магазинчику можна купити футболки з оригінальними принтами, найбільш популярними серед яких є вигадливі варіації зображень сардинського прапора. Вибір футболок настільки великий, що сарди з легкістю могли б одягнути пів-Європи в літній сезон. Ціни на них коливаються в межах 8-20 євро в залежності від якості тканини та адекватності продавців. На мій погляд, такі прикольні футболки будуть найкращим подарунком з Сардинії. Тим паче, що вони не припадатимуть пилом наступні декілька років, допоки їх не спіткає сумна доля непотрібних речей.

В останній день наших канікул на нас чекає ще одна двогодинна подорож сардинською залізницею. Ми купили квитки на швидкісний потяг до аеропорту Кальярі, звідки ірландський лоукост Ryanair забере нас у Краків. Кальярі – найбільше місто Сардинії, і тут теж є на що подивитись (якщо раптом ви прилетіли чи летите з острова саме звідси, а не з Олбії). Наприклад, на затишні вулички, рясно завішані вазонами та випраною білизною, чи на маленькі храми, що колись давно виросли між кольоровими будинками цих вузеньких вулиць. Чи просто на вражаючий порт, куди прибувають гігантські судна зі всього світу.

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Cagliari

Поки гірські пейзажі за вікном потяга чергуються з темними тунелями, а вівці де-не-де виглядають з-за підсмажених на сонці дерев, дві італійки навпроти нас жваво розповідають одна одній про якісь катавасії з сімейного життя. Їхня красива емоційна мова, надзвичайний вид за вікном і наші нові спогади злилися в гармонійну евфонію під назвою “Сардинія”.

Саме за такими неповторними моментами я приїжджаю у нові місця, просто так, без мети та мапи. Вбираю їхні запахи, розчиняюсь у їхніх відтінках і проживаю їхню історію. І врешті, впадаю у стан легкої мімікрії й, не бажаючи розлучатись, забираю це місце з собою.

Богуш Ніна
Більше фото з Сардинії шукайте в моєму Інстаграмі 🙂

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